Image Credit: Vanity Beauty
A few weeks ago, I had a chat with a reader who wanted to know about the difference between skin whitening and skin brightening. Skin whitening is a very common trend in Asia. Advertisements are almost always portraying fair skin that encourages women to reach these crazy expectations of skin colour. It’s not just amongst the Chinese; this affects all skin types and colours too. People aren’t just looking to whiten their face but also their, err, nether regions. The term “snow white” has never been more used. Nor has it been scarier.
The problem with skin whitening products is that they often contain unregulated ingredients. So often fluff ingredients like essential oils and extracts of this-and-that hide the other more dangerous ingredients with technical scientific names that people often just overlook because hey, who wouldn’t want this amazing extract of cucumber on your skin that perhaps is the one that brightens the skin, eh?
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Even though more and more beauty products are banned by Asian countries because of level of harmful ingredients in them like mercury, small vendors are selling so-called skin-whitening products on the black market. After all, if there’s a demand, there will be supply and believe you me, demand for fairer skin is overwhelming.
I had a chat with one of the European managers from L’Oreal at the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival in March and he found the difference between wanting whiter skin in Asia and wanting bronzed and tanned skin in Australia very interesting. You’ll be hard-pressed to find bronzing products in Asia, that’s for sure (try asking for self-tanning creams at beauty counters. Chances are, the sales staff will look at you as though you’re bonkers for wanting to look brown). Having said that, skin brightening products are slowly getting more popular in Australia. Dior has Diorsnow, Chanel is launching a whitening range in Australia soon, Estee Lauder has the Cyberwhite HD and so on.
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Ahh but what is this skin brightening? How does that differ from skin whitening? The difference between the two is that brightening ingredients like Vitamin C gives the skin a boost of radiance and health. It doesn’t bleach your skin. People who go for brighter skin often look like the picture of health (it’s almost as though they have a halo around their face). Sometimes the skin does appear as though it’s lightened but even so, it’s only to the slightest degree.
What I love about skin brightening is that anyone can have brighter and more radiant skin regardless of skin type and colour. The use of Vitamin C on the skin gives the skin the clarity it needs making it smoother, firmer and healthier. Skin whitening products on the other hand often contain potentially dangerous agents like mercury and hydroquinone that can lead to all kinds of health issues. Mercury can cause skin rashes, discolouration, scarring and lead to kidney damage and psychosis.
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I understand the desire for wanting to look fairer. Growing up in Malaysia, it’s common to hear mothers telling their daughters to stay away from the sun because you’ll get dark. Carry an umbrella when you go out because it’s sunny and you’ll get dark. The thought of the dangers of skin cancer isn’t as scary as “getting darker skin”. I have a friend whom I’ve known in my college days who wears sunscreen religiously not because she’s protecting herself from harmful UV rays but just because she’s afraid she’ll have dark skin and she simply cannot have that.
At what cost are we lusting after fair skin? My mum used a particular beauty product (apparently from Japan or Korea) for some time that lightened her hyperpigmentation tremendously and she couldn’t be happier about it. Many months passed before she found out that that product was actually banned in Malaysia because it contained mercury. Even though it was banned, the beauty salon she bought it from was still happily selling the product to their customers. I almost went berserk on the phone when she told me about it and that she had to get a full health check just to find out if the mercury had entered her bloodstream. Thank God, everything was okay but it could have been worse. I sure as hell am not about to lose my mother to dodgy skin whitening products just because society thinks it’s beautiful to have fair skin.
Image Credit: Expat Bostonians
I was originally going to do a review on a particular skin brightening serum I’ve been using when I wrote the first 2 paragraphs but decided to pull that review and talk about the dangers of skin whitening instead. If I have to shake you on the shoulders and plead you to stop using skin whitening agents on your skin, I will. Please check the ingredients properly before buying any “skin whitening/brightening” products. Google the ingredients to know what they are before you put them on your skin.
Before I end the post, here’s a bit of statistics I received from a Lancome beauty event I went to recently: Caucasian skin is the first to show the first signs of aging. Second is Asian skin. Third is African-American skin. Celebrate the skin colour you have, regardless of what it is.
And don’t even get me started on whitening the nether regions. That’s just … that’s just … I have no words.
What are your thoughts on skin whitening and society’s views that fairer skin is more beautiful? Honestly, I think it’s just bollocks.
Source: Upstart, FORBES, AlJazeera
Note: The brands shown in the pictures above are just to show you what the advertisements are like. They do not necessarily mean the products are bad.
As much as I do not condone skin ‘bleaching’, many women suffer from areas of hyperpigmentation due to hormonal reasons and skin trauma. Darker skin types are more prone to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, where the skin darkens as a result of an inflammatory response. In such cases I completely understand the desire to minimise this darkening, however you are very right there are some unpleasant ingredients out there. That said, there are some very sophisticated tyrosinase inhibitors which can really help with hyperpigmentation. I think that is completely different to wanting to whiten your skin completely, which is not natural and I agree in terms of the nether regions…Really?!
Thanks for your comment Rebecca. I understand what you mean about hyperpigmentation due to hormones. My mother has it and now, so do I. I definitely understand the desire to minimise this darkening which is why I recommend skin brightening and use of sunscreen instead of using skin whitening products to bleach the skin. I remembered a long time ago when a beauty therapist actually told my mum to rub her skin with lemon slices because it will apparently “bleach” the skin and lighten the freckles. My eyes grew so wide and said quite loudly “ARE YOU SERIOUS?!” π
As for whitening of the nether regions, sigh … no words at all.
I grew up the same way! Always being told to stay out of the sun, because I’d get dark(er) and to slather on sunscreen. Funny how in all Asian countries dark=ugly. I’m the only one in my family that really enjoys the sun, I don’t mind if I get darker (as long as I’m not burnt). At the end of the day, you have to embrace what you’ve got. On the flipside, I have several family members suffering from a Vitamin D deficiency because they spend so much time living in fear that they might get dark. Sad but true.
I too have Vitamin D deficiency. It’s strange because I do like to out out in the sun too, especially when it’s cold. My GP said that Vitamin D deficiency is very common in Australia but advise against staying outdoors to get the rays for long because the UV rays are still dangerous, Vit D deficient or not. So now I’m popping Vit D tablets like candy. Sigh.
Unfortunately as Asians, it has been drilled into our heads from a young age that the sun is bad for you so much so that I have a dislike for the sun. I even do not like beach holidays for fear of getting darker. The irony is that I am married to a man who loves the sun and rather walks in the heat than to take public transport especially if the distance is short. Lol. He is slowly changing my perception on perspiring in the sun as he said that we all need to sweat more to stay healthy.
I am of course tempted by whitening products as which woman does not want to appear fairer? But I realised that whitening products can leave the skin quite dry so although tempted, I need to balance between hydration and whitening which the former always wins.
Haha it’s okay to enjoy the sun, just remember to slather on lots of sunscreen π
Between hydration and whitening, I’m with you. Hydration always wins.
Very well said, Tine. There is a difference between “skin brightening” and “skin whitening” that people should be aware of. Living here in Asia, “whitening” is what every one wants. Speaking from experience, I was prescribed a cream containing hydroquinone for my pigmentation because its the most effective product to lighten pigmentation. I used it under medical advisory but for some reason, it didn’t lighten my skin but I turned yellow. My skin was very dull, it was sallow and I looked sick. My Mom thought something was wrong with me. It was just after a week.
I stopped it of my own accord and I am extremely wary about anything to do with skin whitening or even brightening from then on. I get the brightening bit, that makes skin look better and more healthy and more radiant. but ultimately, I also think we get that with healthy eating, exercise, and proper use of skincare, brightening or not.
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Mum was prescribed hydroquinone too but it just messed up with her skin. Sadly, she suffers from severe hyperpigmentation, even with religious use of sunscreen. I’m starting to get them on my cheeks too, which tells me it’s not what I did or didn’t do, it’s genetic. I’m staying away from it and turning to other alternatives like kojic acid.
I’ve seen dark skin that is just beautiful. Unlined (they age slower than Caucasions and Asians) and very toing-toing. It’s just sad that Asian society still favours fair skin (we get that a lot here too in Asian suburbs) and go for dodgy alternatives to whiten the skin further.
Great topic to ponder on Tine!
When I was younger, all I wanted to be was to be fairer, despite me already being fair. I saw this senior of mine who was so fair that it’s borderline being whitish. So began my obsession with being fairer, not going out in the sun at all, covering my face with all those protective gear and the list goes on and on. It eventually began to affect my life and my relationship with friends and family. At one point because of my huge-ass umbrella, I didn’t notice a car coming towards me and I narrowly escaped from being mowed down. That was my ‘ah-ha’ moment.
Today, I am still slightly obsessed with being fair but the intensity has died down and I focus more on having good skin and a healthy glow. I do feel that our society has a huge role in enforcing that fair is beautiful among school girls and that actually mess up our brains as we grow older. I guess that’s how the whitening of nether regions trend came along.
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OMG that was scary. I know what you mean by huge-ass umbrella. I used to carry that daily to my tuition classes not because it rained, but because I didn’t want to get darker than I already was. Blocked my view of vehicles too.
I’ve seen the advertisements for whitening of private parts and it just baffles me. It’s such a sensitive area. Heck, douching is already bad enough and now we have bleaching down there? *shakes head*
I know this isn’t brightening but I’ve also seen skin “tinting” creams sold in Asia that add a pinkish glow to female bits – both south and the twins up north.
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Pinkish glow to female bits?? Oh boyyyy. It’s “Meteorites” for the privates! π
more like self-adjusting tint rather than meteorites. Which makes it “blushing bits”. LOLLLLL…
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Excellent article. I totally agree. I remember being quite taken aback many years ago when as a young adult working in Pakistan I discovered that dark-skinned Pakistanis were looked on as inferior by paler skinned compatriots. Don’t know what the situation is now as I haven’t been back since. The desire for paler skin seems to be ingrained in at least a fair majority of the human race and seems quite odd, especially when it leads to putting potentially dangerous products on our skin.
That being said, there can be valid health reasons for wanting a brighter skin and using natural products like the fruit and vegies we can buy locally seems to me to be a much safer and healthier option.
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Thanks Helen. The same can be said for Malaysians, where the darker-skinned folks are not as “superior” as the fairer-skinned ones. Sadly, it’s still going on, whether it’s done in the open or subtly.
I’m naturally fair, so I want to stay fair, though I wish I had of had this mindset in my teens instead of ruining my skin under the sun! I use vitamin C serums, bha’s, aha’s but I would never use anything toxic on my skin for the sake of beauty π
My daughters on the other hand are half Asian and I want them to love whatever skin colour they have, fair or tan and to look after what they were given π
Well said, Jade. Let them love what they have π
horror story about your mum’s skincare product containing mercury!!! Thanks for sharing. I will be more cautious about all these whitening products from now on.
Scary, right? I went a bit nuts on the phone when she told me about it, especially the fact that she didn’t tell me about the product sooner. Thank God the mercury didn’t get into her bloodstream.
Excellent and honest article.
I’m not so into the whitening skin products because 1) after trying tones of these products when I was still in uni, I don’t think the products did any of their jobs. It’s all just ads.
2) I lack of Vitamine D 3) I understand that I should love what I was born with.
Thanks Kris. I’m Vitamin D deficient too. Gotta take supplements from now on >.<
People in my country are CRAZY about skin whitening products it is hard to find nice skin products that are actually beneficial for your skin but almost every other product even scrubs and soaps avialable here promise to whiten your skin , here all the beauty counters are filled with whitening products including bleach creams and people bleach their face frequently without realizing that it’s harmful for their skin.The worst part is some salons have introduced a combination of 4 creams they call it formula cream, it is made of 2 whitening creams, a hydrocortisone cream and some cheap cream called archie they mix these together and when someone uses it for 2 weeks their skin tone lightens upto 3 or 4 shades so people are crazy about it although in long term it causes hyper pigmentation, sensitivity to sun( rashes appear on their skin on exposure to sun) growth of facial hair our dermatologists request people not to use it but both boys & girls here use it to get FAIR SKIN.I have a medium fair skin tone something between NC 25 and NC 30 but people always tell me I should use something to make my skin more fair o_0 .I don’t know why people can just happy with the way GOD made them when I say this to someone they say Fair girls look more pretty everyone likes them more that’s why we do all these things.
I use home made things to brighten up my skin like ubtan or saffron although they take some time to show visible results, in this way not only my skin looks healthy and glowy but I am also satisfied that I am not harming my skin .
I am glad your mother found out about that product early and that she is OK now. I don’t understand these salon people who are risking other people lives just for money π
Thanks for the insight, Sataa. Woah, that is scary indeed, this formula cream thing. Seriously, people would do just about anything to make a quick buck, even if it endangers the lives of others π
Fantastic article! I’m Eurasian and my Chinese mother is always trying to push skin whitening products on me, but only ones by big brand names like Biotherm. She uses them religiously, so I’m hoping that those products are legit.
This reminds me of when I went to a MAC store in Hong Kong to buy some foundation. The salesman looked at me like I was crazy when I told him what shade I wanted, and desperately tried to make me buy a much lighter shade instead.
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Thanks Rose. Haha I know what you mean. Tell them you want a bronzer and they’ll be like, WHAAATTTT? π
I was at one stage believed in the whitening hype and used whitening products religiously. They didn’t work but I still believed I need to use them continuously to see the result. Damn, so much money wasted! I stopped using these products because I came back to Australia and they aren’t available. I eventually stopped believing in the hype because the best way for me to become paler… stay away from the sun. and of course wearing sunscreen.
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I used to be quite dark before I left for uni in the UK (enjoyed sports back in the day. Funny what a sedentary lifestyle I now lead). When I came back, lots of people commented how fair I became. Well, what would they expect; when I leave for classes it’s dark, I stay indoors all day and when I’m back from classes it’s dark. I hardly get any exposure to the sun. To be honest, I found the lack of sun exposure so depressing. Winters are the worst for me because I got so frustrated at barely seeing the sun (I was in Scotland, even worse). It’s not a way I’d want to be fair at all. That was my pre-sunscreen days π
When I was younger, I also used a lot of whitening products but the thing is, you have to use them continuously. Otherwise, I will be back to my color. I gave up and accepted my skin color. I just concentrated on how I could take good care of my skin because my money won’t be put to waste. π
Well said, Issa! Put the money on your health. It’s worth so much more π
I do use whitening products, but anything that’s going to promise to “bleach” the skin or magical result overnight is probably not something I’ll want to use. From my experience, whitening products can only do so much. And a lot of people seem to have the misconception that using whitening products means that we want to be something else. For me, I love my natural skin tone, but I like it to be a bit more even toned. With whitening products, they alleviates my hyperpigmentation and give me an overall glowing complexion.
But it’s so true that if you go ask for tanning products in Asian beauty stores, they are going to think that you are crazy lol
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Hahaha I know! I haven’t seen a single tanning product at Sasa. What are the chances that when I do ask the sales staff, they wouldn’t know what they are? π