How many time have we seen ads on TV and magazines where certain beauty brands boast about their latest technology in miraculously erasing fine lines, boosting elasticity of skin and so on? Ads where they named their technologies like SuperTechVitaminH20™*? (TM – don’t forget the TM!) And then you find out that SuperTechVitaminH20™ uses just aqua (fancypants word for water) and some hocus pocus plant that really doesn’t do much for your face than moisturising it.

In every skincare product we use, we have active ingredients and what I call “fluff” ingredients. Fluff ingredients are the hocus pocus plants and flowers that doesn’t add much value to a skincare product other than boosting an ingredients list and making it smell better. What actually works on our skin – works FOR our skin – are the active ingredients. These are the stuff that actually makes a difference on our skin.

With technology comes new discoveries on the next best thing for our skin. Here are 6 oldies but goodies:

Antioxidants

The centre of anti-aging skincare goodies, which help prevent wrinkles and pigmentation. This includes Vitamin C, pomegranate, green tea, coffee berry and idebenone. It protects skin cells from the environment by neutralising free radicals (these are the molecules that develop when cells are exposed to UV and pollution). They also help to boost collagen and prevents the breakdown of elastin that gives skin elasticity. The thing about antioxidants is that while they can intercept and mitigate free-radical damage, they deteriorate when repeatedly exposed to air and sunlight. Therefore it’s best to look for antioxidant-laden serums or moisturisers that are packaged in opaque tubes or bottles and that the opening that dispenses the product is small so as to minimise exposure to air.

Products to try: Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vitamin C+E Serum, Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution, Kerstin Florian Brightening Facial Treatment, Sukin Certified Organic Rose Hip Oil

Retinol

This is a Vitamin-A molecule that targets fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin dullness. Retinol increases cell turnover and gets rid of dead skin cells that causes dullness. It also increases collagen and elastic production by stimulating cellular repair and boosting circulation. Retinol is photosensitive, so this is a strictly night-time product. If you haven’t used retinol before, start small and slowly build up usage (best to get products with time-released microencapsulated retinol). It can also sting the skin. This is contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Products to try: Dermalogica Multi Vitamin Power Serum, Futurederm Time-Release Retinol 0.5, Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM

Peptides

Collagen (what makes your skin looks boing-boing) is made up of long strands of amino acids. As we age, collagen breaks down, creating small chains called peptides. These peptides send out a signal to the skin cells that more collagen is needed. They are effective in reducing wrinkles and sun damage, and improving skin tone and firmness. Do include a peptide serum in your skincare regime. We all love boing-boing skin, don’t we? 🙂

Products to try: Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream, Estee Lauder Perfectionist [CP+R] Wrinkle Lifting/Firming Serum, SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Ahh the kick-ass exfoliants. That’s what I call AHAs. Glycolic, lactic and citric acids form peels to deeply exfoliate skin by breaking the bonds between dead skin cells. AHAs boost radiance, smooth fine lines and help other equally kick-ass ingredients penetrate the skin. As peels are very strong, don’t do it more than once a week. Using them too often can weaken the skin barrier. Use a gentle cleanser before the peel and finish off with a treatment serum and hydrating moisturiser.

Products to try: Dr Lewinn’s Reversaderm Glycolic Clarifying Clenaser, Olay Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir, Physician’s Formula Firming & Lifting Booster

Niacinamide

This is Vitamin B3 and it targets common skin problems like dryness, blotchiness, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps reduce sebum and pore size, and enhances the production of natural emollients to help keep skin hydrated. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to prevent skin from losing water content and stimulates microcirculation in the dermis. It’s a water-soluble ingredient that is stable in the presence of heat and light. It’s a good long-term pigmentation maintenance ingredient to use with hydroquinone or any other light-based treatments. It also works well with salicylic acid in treating acne and is a soothing anti-inflammatory.

Products to try: Clinique Super Rescue Antioxidant Night Moisturizer, Dermalogica Chroma White TRx Pure Night, emerginC Active Hydrating Complex

Sunscreen

Saving the best for last, this is no doubt the best and most effective anti-aging product you can find. It shields your skin from harmful UV rays (UV ray damages collagen and elastin in the skin) thus protecting your skin against pigmentation, wrinkling and sagging. If you don’t use any of the ingredients above, then the one constant you must have in your skincare regime is sunscreen. Choose a broad-spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreen with SPF no lower than 30. If you’re using a chemical sunscreen, make sure you apply it 20 minutes before going out. You can apply physical sunscreens (the ones that just contain titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) on the go as they physically block UV rays. Most sunscreens break down after 2 hours so do remember to reapply.

Products to try: Invisible Zinc Environmental Skin Protector SPF30+, Dermalogica Solar Defense Booster SPF50

If you’ve any good serums, moisturisers, etc that contain any of these ingredients you’d like to recommend, do let us know in the comments. I’m always on the lookout for the good stuff. 😉

*Such technology does not exist. Yet. Want to trademark it first?

Source: Paula Begoun’s Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me, Prevention, Oprah, WebMD, FutureDerm, The Derm Blog and Madison August 2012